At Eater, our jobs leave us with some leftovers, both literal and figurative. Here’s a mix of recent dining observations, recommendations, and other fixations from across the Eater crew. |
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I’m on vacation, so why not clear out my scratchpad of random New York City dining notes? -
I love going to Kolachi, the no-frills paratha roll spot in the East Village, late at night after a few drinks. My order: the spicy chicken roll with garlic mayo, plus an order of “diesel” fries, with a side of maple syrup for dipping. The spices are really enhanced by the sweetness.
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Speaking of fries in the East Village: The elotes chaat loaded fries at the nearby South Asian sandwich shop Nishaan go really hard (dare I say even harder than the more famous Pakistani chopped cheese). I never thought fries could be refreshing, but the tamarind chutney, diced onions, and chaat masala have a real zestiness.
- I don’t hear people talk about Fred’s Dog House in Williamsburg very often, but it feels like a hidden gem, especially amid so many wine bars and dives. It’s a blues bar with good live music and hot dogs that are way better than they should be (and it’s vegan-friendly, too).
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Recently, I wrote about my meal at Zoli, but I forgot to mention the desserts, which were properly freaky and work beyond the gimmicks: The Taleggio burnt basque cheesecake tastes like, well, Taleggio, and the black garlic comes through in the chocolate cake in a totally balanced way.
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I’ve been to Somssi twice now. Everyone hypes up the caviar-topped potato, but having tried most of the menu, I think the charred shrimp with smoked-corn mayo and the linguine al ragú with mustard kimchi are my favorites.
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Elotes chaat loaded fries at Nishaan. Photo credit: Bettina Makalintal |
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Irish spice bags are Missy Frederick’s new go-to bar snack: “I’ve already sung the praises of the spice bag at B Side in Fairfax, Virginia, and I just sampled another excellent version at Kirwan's on the Wharf in Washington, D.C. The greasy brown bag filled with tingly spiced fries, chicken, and peppers is generously portioned here, with hefty steak fries absorbing plenty of heat while still maintaining their crispiness. Kirwan’s is convenient for a pre-Arena Stage show meal, and I probably tortured the patrons who were also seeing the TLC musical CrazySexyCool afterwards, since I couldn’t bear to leave my box of fragrant leftovers behind.” (Last summer, Eater alum Paolo Bicchieri wrote about how the humble spice bag took over the world.)
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Mapo spaghetti at the Four Kings pop-up. Photo credit: Dianne de Guzman |
Dianne de Guzman has been a fan of San Francisco’s Four Kings since its pop-up days: “And yet, thanks to my restaurant speed-dating lifestyle, it’s been a minute since I braved the reservation apps or walk-in hoops. And while my table ordered a literal feast of dishes, what I had been really waiting for was the mapo spaghetti. The mala spice is such a distinct flavor that truly hits in the right hands. The numbing quality gives each bite zing; it’s a feeling I chase. The spaghetti is always cooked to the right texture, al dente for a bit of chew. I was adamant that our party add it to the table. The spaghetti and the clay pot rice with Chinese sausage are my steady go-tos at Four Kings, and while I would never stop at just two dishes, they’re the base that forms most of my meals here, and the reason why I keep coming back.”
Stephanie Wu is enjoying the summer tomato bounty: “We are in peak tomato season — aka, BLT season — in New York. I kicked it off with Edith’s corn BLT this weekend, which had three thick layers of tomatoes, plus smoked corn. It tastes even better when consumed outdoors, preferably at a park, where you can worry less about the tomato and corn juice getting everywhere. S&P also makes a great one, as does mini-chain Daily Provisions.”
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Carne asada taco from El Ruso. Photo credit: Hilary Pollack |
Hilary Pollack’s “hot carne asada summer” continues: “My colleague Matt Kang is right — LA’s having a huge carne asada moment. I mentioned in last week’s newsletter that I recently had a great carne asada taco at Mirate; now, I’ve had two more mindblowing examples. One was from an under-the-radar taqueria that pops up in my neighborhood, Tire Shop Taqueria #2; it’s open until 2 a.m. on weekends and has become one of my favorite late-night spots for grabbing quesa tacos — stuffed with smoky grilled beef and half-melted, half-crispy cheese, then finished with a cool, creamy avocado salsa that balances the richness of the taco’s other contents. They even wrap each taco individually in paper, making them surprisingly tidy to eat on the go.
The other was from El Ruso, the flour-tortilla-famous taqueria that recently opened a brick-and-mortar location in Studio City. I had mine not at the restaurant but from its roving truck, which my resourceful friends Madison and Haley managed to summon to their front yard for a birthday party. Alongside the carne asada taco, don't miss the phenomenal chile Colorado.”
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