Good morning. What does summer taste like? The answer is something specific, personal, instantly familiar.
Flavor profileIt’s a little early in the summer to luck into corn as perfect as I did last weekend: kernels plump and sweet, that satisfying snap when you bite in. Corn is one of those foods so intrinsically tied up with summer, along with tomatoes, strawberries and stone fruits (all to be extra carefully washed in this unprecedented cyclospora surge, of course.) Summer’s flavor profile begins to form in us early: the foods we ate as children, inseparable from our sun-bleached memories of ourselves in our dated outfits with our dated haircuts. Summer to me tastes like corn and tomatoes and peaches, but also like the flat, grainy surface of the little wooden spoon that came packaged with the individual cups of ice cream they served at camp. Watermelon, Hi-C fruit punch and Cracker Jacks. One summer, just out of college, some friends set up a kettle grill on their rooftop and we got busy putting together a cookout, our first as actual adults. “We should make hot dogs!” someone suggested. That sounded right. “We should have barbecued chicken!” Naturally. “We should make M.M.B.s!” I declared, to bewildered stares. This was one of those moments that occur often when you’re young, when you realize your experience of the world is narrow, that what was standard lingo in your family is not legible to anyone else. We’d called burgers made on the grill M.M.B.s in my family for so long that I’d nearly forgotten what the initialism stood for. “Michael’s Marvelous Burgers” were named for and by my father, the resident grill master. Summer, to me, tasted like M.M.B.s: sculpted patties, salted, peppered and latticed to perfection on the back patio. “It’s Not Summer Until You’ve Had a Proper Shandy,” a headline in The Times read last week. The shandy, the beer-and-lemonade mix, is “the entry-level drink, an intro to your first proper pint” in Britain, according to the restaurateur Annie Shi. Another headline: “Summer Tastes Like Mango (And Vice Versa)” rounded up treats from across New York including Thai sticky rice and frozen Mexican nieves. We could each fill out our own “Summer Tastes Like …” headline. The taste of the season is specific, personal, instantly familiar. That not-altogether-unpleasant sensation of a grain or two of sand in your beach sandwich, the charred edge of a campfire marshmallow. I asked my dad about M.M.B.s recently: Was the recipe a closely guarded secret, as I remembered? Wasn’t there an egg thrown in with the ground chuck? Certainly this mainstay of my summer palate was a Kirsch family heirloom. “It wasn’t that secret, honey,” he told me. “We tried to make it a big deal because it wasn’t a big deal,” he said. “We tried to embellish it, dress it up.” (He didn’t remember the recipe specifically, but he thinks that, yes, there may have been an egg, and perhaps a bit of breadcrumb, for binding.) These days, summer tastes to my dad like grilled chicken breast sandwiches with strips of zucchini. My friend Franny says it’s warm tomatoes off the vine with Duke’s mayonnaise, hot Gatorade from the cup holder in the car. For my colleague Minju, hot Korean soups with wilted kimchi she grew up eating. What does summer taste like? It’s a sort of silly question, but the answer comes from someplace deep. Now I just have to hunt down corn as good as last weekend’s.
War in Iran
Air Force One
Health
More on Politics
Around the World
Business
Film and TV
Music
More Culture
Deeply reported journalism needs your support. The Times relies on subscribers to help fund our mission. Become a subscriber today.
Roasted zucchini pasta saladDo you know what ever summer gathering needs? A really good pasta salad, preferably one with enough vegetables to feel salad-y and light. And it should the kind of thing you can make in advance, at the ready for a picnic or potluck. Kay Chun’s roasted zucchini version checks all the boxes. It’s got vegetables galore, along with golden raisins for sweetness and sunflower seeds for crunch. You can toss with the tahini dressing a few hours ahead. It even gets better as it sits.
The Hunt: After growing up with both a front porch and a back deck, this Queens resident was tired of renting and ready for her own slice of the outdoors. What did she find? Play our game. What you get for $2.5 million: An adobe home in Santa Fe, N.M.; a farmhouse in New Gloucester, Maine; and a former coach house with a tower in Lake Forest, Ill. Pick your favorite. Take the bet: A Chicago suburb raffled off the opportunity for local residents to buy houses below market rate.
Almost impossible: An architect and his client overcame regulatory hurdles to build a house that hovers over the water in Sonoma County, Calif. Embrace minimalism: See how a designer creates simplicity in his own home. Breathe easier: Wildfire smoke can contaminate the air inside a home, but there are steps you can take to make yours safer.
You might be applying sunscreen wrongHow much do you need? How often should you reapply? The short answer: about two tablespoons, every two hours. For stick sunscreen, that’s four passes back and forth. For sprays, until your skin glistens. Make sure you rub it in fully — yes, even for sticks and sprays, and even if the directions say otherwise. As for what to buy? The best sunscreen is the one you’ll apply liberally and often. Here are some of our favorites. — Rose Maura Lorre
LeBron James is signing with the Philadelphia 76ers. James is 41 years old and the N.B.A.’s all-time leading scorer; this will be his 24th season, extending what is already the longest career in the league’s history. He has agreed to join the team on a two-year, $8 million contract. “I believe I can help make the Philadelphia 76ers a championship team,” he said, “and I am so excited to energize a new fan base and start this incredible journey one last time.” How did the Sixers hook him?
Here is today’s Spelling Bee. Yesterday’s pangram was evoking. Take the news quiz to see how well you followed this week’s headlines. And here are today’s Mini Crossword, Wordle, Crossplay, Connections and Strands. Thanks for spending part of your weekend with The Times. — Melissa Sign up here to get this newsletter in your inbox. Reach our team at [email protected].
|
